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When curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest place achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary triumph.